Sunday Night Capers

It's been raining like crazy all day today, so it has been spent cosying up indoors, listening to the rain on the roof and enjoying a luxurious lazy Sunday afternoon. As dinnertime approached, I wanted something tasty robust tasting and comforting - but that didn't require slow cooking or lots of fuss. This dish of pan fried pork cutlet with a zingy and delicious lemon caper sauce fit the bill perfectly, especially when served with some creamy mash and beautiful seasonal asparagus. It was quick to put together, but didn't scrimp on flavour or the comfort food factor.

Andrew reminded me this week that the very first meal I ever cooked him at home was pork cutlets with caper sauce and how much he enjoyed it. I haven't really made it since, which is surprising, as this classic sauce is so simple to do and it tastes delicious. It adds a special element to an otherwise quite simple meal - and you can even make up the butter and freeze it so you have it on hand whenever you feel like it - really worth doing.

This butter based sauce works beautifully with rich meat such as pork, or if you like seafood, salmon steaks or any robust, firm fleshed fish. The acidity and saltiness of the capers, lemon and a touch of anchovy cuts through the richness of the meat, giving a lovely vibrancy to the dish. This is so easy, it barely warrants being called a recipe! Give it a try.

Pan fried pork cutlet

with lemon & caper sauce

You will need:
1-2 pork cutlets per person, 3 tablespoons butter,1 clove finely chopped or crushed garlic, 2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley, 2 teaspoons finely chopped capers (I use the baby ones), 2 anchovies chopped and mashed, 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, pinch of cayenne pepper, salt and pepper.

Method:
Combine all ingredients except the pork in a small saucepan. Set aside.

Season the pork. Pan fry or BBQ the pork until cooked as desired. I like it to retain a touch of pinkness in the middle, so it stays succulent. Let the pork rest for 5 minutes.

While the pork is resting, heat the butter in a small saucepan until it melts. Add any of the meat juices from the rested cutlets. Drizzle the butter over the pork just prior to serving (or serve in a small bowl so people can dish up their own sauce)

This dish is delicious with a creamy potato mash and a fresh green vegetable such as asparagus, green beans or broccoli.

*******

Lemony, Garlicky Chicken with Fregola

Summer eating really lends itself to vibrant Mediterranean flavours, so that was the inspiration for today's recipe. I had a large bowl of lovely cherry tomatoes grown and harvested from our little inner city garden and a nice crop of basil, as well as a pack of fregola that had been sitting in the pantry not yet opened, so it made sense to put them all together. A couple of lemons in the fruit bowl, as well as some lovely organic garlic sealed the deal. I had intended cooking a plain old roast chicken for dinner, but thought that there was no point leaving our lovely free range Burrawong chook out of things, so it got the Mediterranean flavour treatment as well.

Some of you might not have come across fregola before. Fregola comes from the Italian island of Sardinia and is small beads or "pebbles" of semolina pasta traditionally formed by hand, then toasted. This process gives the fregola a delightfully nutty and chewy character. Fregola is made by sprinkling water over semolina flour and quickly rubbing your fingers through the flour creating small balls of pasta. These are then sifted through different sized strainers to collect fregola of similar size so they cook evenly. Very sensible. It is used in a wide range of dishes from soups and stews to cold salads and accompaniments for meat or seafood.

As well as being very tasty, it is particularly versatile - you can pretty much use it anywhere you would use pasta, risoni or cous cous. Fregola is popping up on menus more and more, and these days it isn't overly difficult to get hold of. An Italian deli or good supermarket is likely to stock it. I have also seen it in gourmet stores so keep your eyes open for it. Although I am serving fregola today as a side dish with chicken, this would be a lovely simple vegetarian dish in it's own right if you forget about the chook part.

 Lemony, Garlicky Chicken

with Fregola

Because of our shiny new BBQ, and the fact that I'm a bit obsessed with cooking on it at the moment,  I did the chicken in this recipe on the open BBQ grill, with the lid on for most of the cooking. You can of course cook the chicken in a normal oven - I have included those instructions in the recipe below. If you are cooking the chicken in the oven, I recommend using a rack to cook the chicken on - allows better air circulation around the food and you will end up with a far better result.

You will need:
For the chicken - 1 whole free range chicken (skin on), 6 cloves minced or very finely chopped garlic, 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon sweet paprika, 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 anchovies chopped or minced very fine, the juice and finely grated rind of 2 lemons, 1 teaspoon Harissa (if you don't have this, you can use minced chilli instead)

For the Fregola - 1 cup Fregola, 2 cups chopped cherry tomatoes, 1/2 cup chopped spring onions, 1 tablespoon chopped pitted black olives, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 2 anchovy fillets finely chopped, 1 tablespoon baby capers rinsed, 2 teaspoons olive oil, a handful fresh basil leaves.

To serve - extra basil leaves and lemon

Method:
Rinse the chicken with cold water. Pat dry inside and out with paper towels. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut through either side of the backbone, removing the backbone and chook's bum with it. Turn the chicken breast side up and push on the breast so that the chicken is flattened out a little.

Combine all of the other chicken ingredients in a smallish bowl and mix well. Rub the mixture thoroughly all over the chicken, including under the skin as much as possible. Put the chicken on a plate, cover and allow to the flavours to infuse in the fridge for at least an hour (overnight is even better)

When you are ready to cook, heat the BBQ to a medium/high heat and cook the chicken over the open grill for about 30 minutes, turning from time to time. Keep the lid on as much as you can. You can also cook the chicken in the oven - cook for about the same time, on 220C. Cooking time may vary depending on the size of the chicken, so just keep an eye on it so that you don't over or under cook it.

Once the chicken is cooked, cover loosely with foil and allow it to rest while you make the fregola.

Combine the cherry tomatoes, 2 teaspoons olive oil, garlic, anchovies, capers, olives in a pan and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cook fregola in a pot of simmering salted water for 10 minutes until al dente and drain well.

Add the spring onion and the torn basil leaves to the tomato mixture. Cook for another 5 minutes. Now add the drained fregola and mix well.

Cut the chicken into pieces and serve it with the fregola and some extra basil leaves and lemon. Serves 4-6 people.

******

Beautiful Beef

Last weekend we visited the fabulous Feather and Bone Providores to check out their butcher shop, located in a warehouse in the back streets of Rozelle. They specialise in sustainably grown meat with the focus on guaranteeing provenance - that is, knowing exactly where and how the meat is produced. All products are sourced locally, and because they have such close relationships with the producers, they can not only tell you where the meat was raised, what it was fed, the sustainabilty practices of the farm that it came from, but even which paddock it lived in!

Because they deal with small producers, supply often fluctuates, sometimes they will only get small amounts of a product, so they issue a newsletter to customers every week telling them what is in stock for the next 7 days - you can't get more seasonal than that! They supply meat and game, poultry, eggs and a range artisan products such as handmade sausages, pates and terrines. Most of their business is based online and they deliver all over Sydney, but you can also arrange to pick up your order from their butchery in Rozelle. To find out more go to  http://www.featherandbone.com.au/

We came away with some pork and fennel sausages, lovely Wagyu rump steaks, a free range chicken and a large piece of Dexter Beef rump from the mid north coast of New South Wales.

The Dexter breed originates from Ireland and is one of the smallest European breeds of cattle. They produce beautiful quality milk and beef. Once quite rare, some cattle farmers in Australia have started breeding them very sucessfully, especially in New South Wales and Tasmania. I was curious to see what the meat tasted like, as I had heard about how great it was, but had never seen it for sale anywhere until now.

I chose to cook the beef in one piece, over the coals on the BBQ. I just don't think you can beat cooking over coals for flavour. I seasoned the meat well with Murray River pink salt and plently of pepper, and made sure the beef was at room temerature before cooking it. Never cook meat straight from the fridge - the muscle fibres in the meat contract quickly when they hit the heat and the result is tough meat. Second rule of course is to always rest your meat before carving it. I rested the roast for about 20 minutes.

Roasted Dexter Beef

I decided against a traditional roast beef dinner and instead went for something with a bit of a French influence, choosing to serve the Dexter beef roast with a luscious potato galette (my recipe below is based on Julia Child's) and a fresh parsley and caper sauce.

Potato Galette

The beef had a fantastic flavour - quite lean but with a delicious crust on the outside, created by rubbing the thin layer of fat with the salt, and the effect of cooking over the coals.The accompaniments were a perfect addition to an outstanding piece of beef - and a perfect seasonal Spring menu. I will definitely be buying Dexter beef again, for it's wonderful flavour.

Roasted Dexter Beef

With potato galette and parsley and caper Sauce

Cooking the meat was very basic, so I haven't included cooking instructions - however I have included the recipes for both of today's side dishes - they would be lovely with any kind of meat, including poultry or even fish. As Julia would say - Bon Appetit!

Parsley and Caper Sauce

You will need: 1 large bunch continental parsley chopped, 1 clove crushed garlic, 1 tablespoon capers, 2 spring onions sliced finely, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 4 anchovies chopped finely, 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons warm water, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to season.

Method: Combine all of the ingredients in a food processor until well blended. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper as needed. Cover with gladwrap until ready to serve. This can be made a few hours ahead and stored in the fridge.

Potato Galette

You will need: About 1 kg washed, peeled whole potatoes, 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary chopped finely, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tablespoon salted butter, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper.

Method: Melt the butter and combine in a small bowl with the olive oil, rosemary and garlic. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 200C.

Slice the potatoes very thinly (a mandolin or slicing attachment of the food processor is great for this)

Place the potatoes in a layer in a springform cake tin, or a round pie tin. Brush with the butter mixture and season with salt and pepper. Continue building up layers until you have used all of the potato.

Cover the dish with foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and continue to bake for a further 30 minutes, until the top is crispy and golden.

Allow the dish to rest for about 10 minutes before cutting into wedge shaped slices and serving.

******

Comfort food - Italiano!

Is there a person alive who doesn't love a good schnitzel? I think it rates as one of the ultimate comfort foods and the other night I really felt like some comfort, so I decided to do a simple chicken schnitzel. As it turned out, I also had some eggplant in the fridge so what started as a basic schnitzel turned into something else entirely, with a distinctive Italian flavour. I simply prepared the chicken schnitzels as you normally would - well seasoned flour, then some beaten egg and breadcrumbs and in the fridge to firm up for 10 minutes or so before shallow frying the chicken.

While the chicken was chilling, I sliced the eggplant thinly and then cooked the slices in a very lightly oiled pan until it started to colour. I also made a simple tomato based sauce at the same time. Once I had cooked the chicken, I spread on a thin layer of the tomato sauce, topped the chicken with the eggplant, then some more sauce. I then added a mixture of mozzerella and parmesan cheese and baked the chicken in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes or so. Easy.

Chicken Melanzane

with asparagus, baby carrots and white anchovy and caper butter

I had been to the organic market the day before and had bought some lovely baby carrots and asparagus as well as some white anchovies and these formed the basis for a side dish to serve with the chicken. The butter that I used as a dressing for the vegetables would also work really well as a simple sauce for filled pasta, such as tortellini or ravioli. You can also make a batch of the butter and freeze it.

To make the butter, I just finely chopped a handful of capers and 5 or 6 white anchovies. Add this to a couple of tablespoons unsalted butter, along with a pinch of cayenne pepper and a generous amount of black pepper. Mix well and then just toss through the hot vegetables. Delicious.

*****

By special request....

Here at Gourmet Goddess we are all about satisfying the culinary cravings of those we care about, so this week when my friend and fellow food lover - the lovely Emily - asked me if I had a recpe for a mediterranean style chicken casserole dish, I promised her that I would whip one up on the weekend and post the recipe. This chicken dish I have chosen is very rustic and the flavours are bold, with the addition of fennel, olives and capers. The sauce also contains anchovies. Now, if you hate anchovies, don't go all skittish on me (you are already screwing up your nose, aren't you??) Anchovies add a beautiful piquant quality to the sauce and I promise you that it won't taste even remotely fishy. They really do add something special to the dish, so don't be tempted to leave them out. I really love capers in a whole range of dishes and they really work well with mediterranean flavours. Generally I prefer to use the salted capers - you just need to rinse the salt off them before use. If you can only get the ones in vinegar, that's fine - just drain them well. The smaller capers are much nicer than the really large ones too, so look out for the smaller "baby" capers.

This dish can be made ahead and is actually even more delicious the next day. Perfect for entertaining if you want a "set and forget" meal that will not keep you away from your guests. It is also ideal for freezing, which is what I am doing with the batch I've made tonight. It is gorgeous as a pie filling too. Put the mixture in a dish or in individual ramekins and whack some puff pastry on the top. Cook until the pastry is puffed and golden and presto! Mediterranean chicken pie. This casserole is lovely with polenta, green vegetables such as broad beans or zucchini or with crusty, garlic grilled bread.

So, here you are Em - hope you enjoy this one....

Mediterranean chicken with olives and capers

You will need: 1kg boneless chicken thighs, 2 tablespoons plain flour, 2 tablespoons mild paprika, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 large onions, 1 small fennel bulb, 4 cloves garlic, 1/2 cup roughly chopped pitted olives (I used a mixture of red and green), 1 tablespoon capers, 1 bay leaf, 4 anchovies finely chopped, olive oil, 1 litre chicken stock, 1 tin crushed tomatoes, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method: Trim the excess fat from the chicken thighs and if the chicken thighs are all in one large piece when you buy them, cut them in two. Combine the plain flour, cayenne, a generous amount of black pepper and 1 tablespoon of the paprika - coat the chicken well in that mixture. Heat some olive oil in a casserole dish on the stovetop and brown the chicken till golden, a few pieces at a time. Don't overcrowd the pan - you want to brown the chicken at this stage, not stew it. Put the chicken aside.

Slice the onion and fennel (only use the white part of the fennel bulb). Heat a splash of olive oil in the pan and cook the fennel and onion until it starts to soften. Add the bay leaf, garlic, anchovies, olives and capers and combine well. Add the chicken, stock, tomatoes, balsamic and 1 tablespoon paprika. Bring to a simmer and then cover the pan and transfer it to a moderate oven.

Cook for 1 hour with the lid on, stirring a few times during the cooking. After the 1 hour mark, taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if required. Turn the oven up high and cook the chicken for another 20 minutes so that the sauce reduces furter before serving. Serves 4-6 people.

****

Ispirazione Italiana!

My inspiration for the flavours of this rack of lamb is the famous Italian pasta dish, Spaghetti Puttanesca (Whore's spaghetti) which traditionally uses capers, chilli and anchovies. I have used these ingredients as part of a marinade for the lamb, resulting in a salty, slightly spicy taste that goes beautifully with the meat. If you are (god forbid!!) an anchovy hater, don't be put off. The anchovies add a beautiful piquant element to the dish that isn't remotely fishy. It may even convert you to the merits of anchovies in cooking. I personally think that no pasta sauce is complete without a few of those salty lil' fishies, but that's for another day and another recipe :)

To go with the lamb I have chosen Risoni - small, rice shaped pasta flavoured with mushrooms and pumpkin. You will find Risoni in the dry pasta section of most supermarkets. If you have trouble finding it, continental delis or food stores will stock it. It may also be called Risi, or if you happen to be buying it from a Greek food store like I did, it will be called Orzo. Regardless of the name, you will recognise it by its rice shape. It may come in a few different sizes too - choose whatever takes your fancy. Obviously the smaller they are, the quicker they will cook.

Over to you - inizi a cucinare! (that's Italian for start cooking!)

Rack of Lamb
with Pumpkin and Mushroom Risoni

For the lamb......

You will need: 2 x trimmed racks of lamb (4 cutlets on each rack), 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 3 cloves crushed garlic, 3 teaspoons finely chopped capers, 1 teaspoon very finely chopped red chilli (less if you aren't a chilli fan), 3 minced or very finely chopped anchovies, 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper,a couple of pinches of salt.

For the risoni......

You will need: 300g risoni (orso), 1 large diced brown onion, 2 cloves garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 cups cooked pumpkin cut into small cubes (it should be slightly firm and not overcooked), 2 cups thinly sliced button mushrooms, 2 tablespoons dried porcini mushrooms, 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock, 2 tablespoons chopped continental parsley, 1 tablespoon salted butter, 1 tablespoon grated parmesan, salt and pepper to taste.

Method (lamb): Combine all of the ingredients to form a marinade. Place in a bowl with the lamb, mix well, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour. Overnight is even better.

Preheat the oven to 200C. Put the lamb in a baking dish and cook to your liking (20 minutes for rare, 30 minutes for medium) Loosely cover the lamb in foil and allow it to rest for 10mins before carving.

Method (risoni): Soak the porcini in warm water until soft. Reserve 1 tablespoon of the liquid. Drain porcini and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a pan and add the onion and garlic. Cook until the onion starts to turn transparent. Add the button mushrooms and the porcini and sautee for 1 minute. Add the pumpkin, stock and porcini liquid and allow to simmer until the liquid reduces by about half. Set aside.

Cook the risoni in salted boiling water until tender (around 8-10 mins) Drain thoroughly and add to the vegetable mixture along with the butter, parmesan and parsley. Combine well and taste for seasoning. Adjust seasoning as required. Serve with the carved rack of lamb.

Serves 4

*